50 Years on Everest

On May 1 in 1963, Jim Whittaker became the first American to reach the summit of Mt. Everest. He was part of a team led by Norman Dyenruth that made a multi-pronged ascent of the mountain, including a daring route by Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld of the previously unclimbed West Ridge.

Last month, almost fifty years later, the American Alpine Club gathered a few of the surviving members of the expedition in San Francisco to celebrate their accomplishment. In attendance were the expedition leader, 95 year-old Norman Dyenruth, who flew in from Austria; Jim Whittaker (who appeared at Mountainfilm 2009); Dave Dingman, who did not summit but was a key part of the team; and Tom Hornbein, who displayed a jar that held Willi Unsoeld’s toes to the audience. The event was presented by Eddie Bauer, which provided the original gear used by the alpinists.

The room was full of other Americans who had climbed Everest, many of whom are familiar to our audiences: Conrad Anker, David Breashears and Dr. Peter Hackett, who received an award. Another award named in honor of Galen Rowell went to photographer Aaron Huey for his work on Pine Ridge reservation (which he exhibited at Mountainfilm in 2011).

We plan to bring Jim Whittaker and Tom Hornbein to the festival this year as special guests and will present other programming related to this momentous landmark in American alpine history.